Selecting a Bait Casting Reel
Selecting a Bait Casting Reel
As noted below, the line for bait-casting is of very small caliber and it follows that a large reel is not enough. The multiplying reel holds practically the amount of line called for by the trade size, this not being the case, as above noted, with the single-action reel. The next size reel, 80 yards, requires, when 50 yards of line are used, a core of line, cork or wood to fill up the reel spool before the casting line proper is wound on. Some casters build around the reel spindle a core of cork or wood; but this is a troublesome affair in case the angler wishes at any time to use more line than allowed for when fitting the core. It is better simply to wind on a core of cheap line although this is apt to work loose and cause soft and uneven spooling of the line. On a light split-bamboo casting rod use a small reel. For solid wood or steel rods any of the 80-yard reels will do.
In shape the reel should be long in the barrel, that is, between the end plates, and the end plates should be of small diameter, thus differing from the ordinary double-multiplying reel in which the spindle is usually short. The long barrel facilitates thumbing the reel. Reels having even-spooling or self-thumbing devices are on the market, the idea being, it seems, to make needed. Casting lines are sold in fifty yard lengths, and to hold this amount of line a sixty-yard reel is quite large any skill on the part of the caster unnecessary. Reputedly they do what is claimed for them; personally I have never used one. It seems to me that there would not be much sport in using a self-aiming rifle or an auto-striking trout fly, and that there would be very little more enjoyment in using a self-thumbing reel. Mechanical advancement in the manufacture of rifles, reels and the like is a praiseworthy thing until it reaches a point where skill on the part of the user is partially or wholly eliminated. When a sporting tool reaches this stage of “advancement" it ceases to be desirable.
The position of the multiplying reel on the casting rod is properly on top of the rod with the handle to the right for the right-handed caster. If you go into the literature of casting for bass to any extent you will find that another method, with the reel underneath the rod — that is, turned underneath when reeling in — is strenuously advocated by certain writers. Have the reel on top, handle to the right, and keep it there both when casting and retrieving. This is the advice and practice of experienced bait-casters almost to a man. The reel, when placed in this way, is far easier to keep under constant control either when thumbing the outrunning line or spooling the line when reeling in.
As regards the amount to pay for a bait-casting reel — you can go pretty nearly as far as you like. Sixty dollars is about the top price for a stock quadruple multiplier, and $2.00 is about as low as you can go.
Bearing in mind how delicate, in a way, the mechanism of a satisfactory casting reel must be, a matter of as accurate adjustment as the assembling of a fine scientific instrument or watch, and, also bearing in mind the amount of hard work the reel must do, it is evident that the two-dollar reel will not be quite the thing. On the other hand it is hardly necessary to sink $60.00 for a reel. A certain very popular reel used a great deal by tournament casters and also for fishing, costs, full-jeweled, $37.00. The same reel without jewels is $20.00. A reel of this quality is quite good enough for anyone — entirely too good for a great many. The reels most frequently seen in use on lakes and streams in the woods, as distinguished from those generally observed in use on artificial casting pools in parks or Madison Square Garden, may be had for something between $6.00 and $15.00. Some, not all, of these reels are very good ones for practical fishing and, if well cared for, will last a long time.
Camp, Samuel Granger. Fishing Kits and Equipment,. New York: Outing Pub., 1910. Print.
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